為什麼咖啡店的手沖比較好喝 Why Does Pour-over Coffee Taste Better in Coffee Shops?

 

奇了~明明在咖啡店喝了好喝,才買豆子回家的,為什麼在家卻沖不出一樣的風味呢?是磨豆機、手沖壺、或是我!影響了這杯咖啡?

It's strange how the coffee tastes so good when I drink it at the coffee shop, but when I buy the beans and brew it at home, I can't achieve the same flavor. Is it the grinder, the pour-over kettle, or is it me that affects the taste of this cup of coffee?

 

造成咖啡品飲不一樣是萃取率及咖啡濃度。但有一個很重要的因素是心情。品咖啡需要心情放鬆、身體活絡、精神專注的狀態。有沒有覺得找人在咖啡館談事情時,喝不到什麼咖啡風味。但找朋友一起去品咖啡時,從選豆、等候吧台師準備器材及磨豆時,味蕾視野已準備妥當;聞咖啡粉的香氣時,玫瑰花香、芒果香、葡萄香都聞到了;看著手沖過程、邊聊著咖啡產地時,似乎已走到世界的另一端、想望著手摘咖啡果實及後製處理的景像;此時咖啡已香氣迷人的端到眼前了,輕輕啜飲一口,酸質明亮圓潤感受到了,尾韻果汁香甜綿延正在口中令人陶醉不已。品咖啡的心情,可能是各種準備中最容易漏掉的吧。

The difference in coffee flavor can be attributed to extraction rate and coffee concentration. However, there is an important factor - your mood. Enjoying coffee requires a relaxed state of mind, an active body, and focused attention. Have you ever noticed that when you're discussing business in a coffee shop, you can't really taste the coffee flavors? But when you go to enjoy coffee with friends, from selecting the beans to waiting for the barista to prepare the equipment and grind the beans, your taste buds and senses are already prepared. As you smell the aroma of the coffee grounds, you can detect scents of rose, mango, and grape. Watching the pour-over process and discussing the origin of the coffee, it feels like you have traveled to the other side of the world, envisioning the hand-picked coffee cherries and the post-harvest processing. At this moment, the coffee, with its enchanting aroma, is presented before you. Taking a gentle sip, you can feel the bright acidity and smoothness, with a lingering aftertaste of fruity sweetness that delights your palate. The mood for enjoying coffee is perhaps the easiest thing to overlook during the preparation.

 

不過實際上要呈現這些香氣與風味,要以咖啡館職人精神來注重各種環節,像是咖啡豆的選擇、磨豆機、手沖壺、各種器皿、水質等。上述中最大的不同,應該是磨豆機,在JC咖啡門市用的是EK43S磨豆機,JC咖啡賈老闆家中用的是小飛馬鬼齒磨豆機,同一支豆子,由同一人沖泡,在店裏沖就是比在家裏沖來的好喝,香氣飽滿度、風味層次感、甜感與酸質等,就是不一樣。

However, in reality, to achieve these aromas and flavors, one needs to pay attention to various aspects with the dedication of a coffee shop professional, such as bean selection, grinder, pour-over kettle, various utensils, and water quality. Among the mentioned factors, the biggest difference should lie in the grinder. At the Justin Coffee shop, they use an EK43S grinder, while the owner, Mr. Jia, uses a Mazzer Kony grinder at home. With the same beans and brewed by the same person, the coffee brewed at the shop simply tastes better than at home, with differences in aroma richness, flavor complexity, sweetness, acidity, and more.

 

如果上述二點都拿捏得當了,有喝咖啡的心情,有專業的磨豆機及器具,還有什麼讓咖啡不一樣呢?即是一開始提到的萃取率及咖啡濃度。同一支豆子來說,萃取率過低、咖啡喝起來較酸,萃取率過高、喝起來苦澀。同一支豆子如果濃度改變,濃度過低、咖啡喝起來平淡,濃度過高、喝起來過濃礙口帶苦感。

If you've mastered the two points mentioned above—having the mood for coffee and using professional grinders and equipment—what else can make coffee taste different? It's the extraction rate and coffee concentration that were mentioned earlier. For the same coffee beans, a low extraction rate will result in a more acidic taste, while a high extraction rate will lead to bitterness and astringency. Similarly, if the coffee concentration changes, low concentration will result in a flat taste, while high concentration will create an overly strong and bitter sensation.

 

│延伸閱讀: 咖啡萃取率 關鍵4要素
Further reading: 4 Key Factors in Coffee Extraction
 

如果萃取率及濃度是可以掌控及調配,呈現出來的手沖咖啡可以有很大的變化。如果是自己烘豆的咖啡館,吧台師對自己的豆子掌握度比較高,像是豆子的烘焙度是淺到哪裏或深到何處、烘焙節奏是緩或是快、脫水率是正常或過高或過低、口感是偏輕盈或厚實、風味飽滿度是集中或多層次、風味輪郭是花果香調或焦糖堅果調等;這些豆子特性的掌握度,影響著萃取率及濃度的設定,讓每一杯咖啡都不一樣。

If you can control and adjust the extraction rate and concentration, you can achieve significant variations in pour-over coffee. In a coffee shop where they roast their own beans, the baristas have a higher level of control over the beans' characteristics. This includes aspects, such as the roast level—whether it's light or dark; the roasting rhythm—whether it's slow or fast; the moisture content—whether it's normal, too high, or too low; the mouthfeel—whether it's light-bodied or full-bodied; the flavor intensity—whether it's concentrated or multi-structures; the flavor profile—whether it's floral and fruity or caramel and nutty, among others. The mastery of these bean characteristics influences the setting of extraction rate and concentration, resulting in each cup of coffee being unique.

 

│延伸閱讀:手沖咖啡黃金比例
│Futher reading:Perfect Pour-Over Coffee Golden Ratio

 

舉例來說,一支帶有花果香的豆子,正常手沖參數,如果是水溫90度、粉水比1:15,根據豆子特性來調整時,要更集中品飲花果香,可以低萃取率搭配高濃度,改以較低水溫像是80度、粉水比1:12來手沖,會有更佳的品飲感受。

For example, let's consider a coffee bean with floral and fruity notes. Using the standard parameters for pour-over brewing, such as a water temperature of 90℃ and a coffee-to-water ratio of 1:15, if you want to enhance the concentration of the floral and fruity flavors based on the bean's characteristics, you can adjust the variables. By using a lower extraction rate combined with higher concentration, you can switch to a lower water temperature, like 80℃, and a coffee-to-water ratio of 1:12 for pour-over brewing. This will provide a more enjoyable tasting experience.

 

每個人呈現手沖咖啡的萃取率及濃度是不一樣,這也是手沖咖啡迷人之處。JC咖啡的烘豆精神,找出豆子最適合的烘焙定調,讓在家以自己平時慣用的沖煮方式,得到每一支豆子不同的品飲感受。

The extraction rate and coffee concentration for pour-over coffee can vary for each person, and that's part of the charm of pour-over coffee. The roasting philosophy at Justin Coffee involves finding the optimal roast profile for each bean, allowing you to use your preferred brewing method at home and experience the unique flavors of every bean.

 


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