厭氧處理法 Anaerobic Fermentation

 

有一種帶有酒香調 的咖啡,風味特殊、明確,近期深受咖啡市場歡迎,這種特殊處理法,竟是參考自葡萄酒釀造技術,讓咖啡的造香可能性躍升至新的高度~

There is a kind of coffee with a wine aroma, which has a special and clear flavor, and has been very popular in the coffee market recently. This special treatment method is borrowing from the wine brewing technology, which makes the possibility of coffee aroma production leap to a new height level.

 

所有的咖啡都是從果實開始,經過幾個轉化步驟才成為咖啡。儘管厭氧發酵相對較新,但有氧發酵(過程中包含氧氣)已成為普遍做法。由於水、糖、細菌和酵母的存在,一旦咖啡被採摘,發酵就會開始。咖啡粘液中的糖和酸隨後會轉化為不同的酸、二氧化碳、乙醇和其他化合物。咖啡的發酵方式會有所不同,具體取決於它們是經過水洗、日曬或是蜜處理,因此會產生多種風味。

All coffee starts from the fruit and goes through several transformation steps to become coffee. Although anaerobic fermentation is relatively new, aerobic fermentation (which includes oxygen in the process) has become common practice. Fermentation begins once the coffee is picked due to the presence of water, sugar, bacteria and yeast. The sugars and acids in coffee mucilage are then converted into different acids, carbon dioxide, ethanol and other compounds. Coffees are fermented differently depending on whether they are washed, natural, or honey-processed, resulting in a variety of flavors.

 

與有氧發酵相比,厭氧發酵產生不同的酸,如乳酸,最終具有鮮明的風味。在此過程中,厭氧菌被放置在密封罐中,罐中因二氧化碳積聚而加壓,然後使用釋放閥釋放剩餘壓力和氧氣,這種額外的壓力迫使果汁和糖進入生豆中。經過一段時間後,再將咖啡果實進行水洗、日曬或蜜處理。

Compared to aerobic fermentation, anaerobic fermentation produces different acids, such as lactic acid, which end up with a distinct flavor. During this process, anaerobic bacteria are placed in airtight tanks that are pressurized by the buildup of carbon dioxide, and the remaining pressure and oxygen are released using a release valve. This extra pressure forces juices and sugars into the green beans. After a period of time, the coffee cherries are washed, sun-dried or honey-processed.

 

這也是一種應用在紅酒處理中的新方式,咖啡最早運用此方法是出現在2015年,世界咖啡師冠軍Sasa Sestic受到澳大利亞家鄉一位釀酒師的啟發,在當年世界咖啡師錦標賽上,Sestic將成熟的咖啡果實置於密封金屬容器(不鏽鋼桶)裡注入二氧化碳、排出氧氣,因而能在無氧的環境下進行發酵與分解,且對發酵過程中的PH值、氣體組成、濕度、溫度,甚至是參與發酵的細菌種類和數量等因素,都能進行有效的控制,發展出更棒的甜味和更平衡的風味。這種經過二氧化碳浸漬的方法,與酒體較輕、果香濃郁的當代葡萄酒有關。

This is also a new way of processing red wine. Coffee first used this method in 2015. The world barista champion Sasa Sestic was inspired by a winemaker in his hometown in Australia. At the World Barista Championship that year, Sestic placed the coffee fruit in a sealed metal container (stainless steel barrel) to inject carbon dioxide and discharge oxygen. Thus it could be fermented and decomposed in an oxygen-free environment. The PH value, gas composition, humidity, temperature, and even factors such as the type and quantity of bacteria involved in fermentation can be effectively controlled to develop a better sweetness and a more balanced flavor. This carbonic maceration is associated with lighter-bodied, fruit-forward contemporary wines.

 

尼加拉瓜Fincas Mierisch的Erwin Mierisch農場自2018年一直在試驗,他發現不僅發酵時間長短具有影響,而且溫度控製也有重大影響。溫度在很大程度上決定所呈現的風味類型,在較熱的發酵中,發現更強烈的味道,如棕色香料(肉桂、丁香、紅糖);而在較冷的發酵中(在攝氏8-10度發酵),發現更乾淨和充滿活力的酸度,Mierisch補充說,在Fincas Mierisch,他們更喜歡低溫發酵的結果。

Erwin Mierisch's farm in Fincas Mierisch, Nicaragua, has been experimenting since 2018, and he has found that not only the length of fermentation has an effect, but also the temperature control has a major impact. Temperature largely determines the type of flavors presented, in hotter fermentations, more intense flavors are found such as brown spices (cinnamon, cloves, brown sugar); cooler fermentation (8~10 degrees) found cleaner and more vibrant acidity. Mierisch added that they prefer the result of lower-temperature fermentation at Fincas Mierisch.

 

厭氧發酵在咖啡生產商中引發了一場小型科學革命,生產商意識到不再需要靠運氣來提高質量,比以往任何時候都擁有更多的控制權。我們都可以從中受益,獲得更豐富的咖啡風味體驗。

Anaerobic fermentation has sparked a mini-scientific revolution among coffee producers, who have realized that they no longer have to rely on luck to improve quality and have more control than ever before. We can all benefit from a richer coffee flavor experience.

 


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