認識真正的藍山咖啡 Understanding True Blue Mountain Coffee

 

在精品咖啡普及之前,藍山咖啡是頂級咖啡豆的代名詞,號稱世界上行銷最成功、價格最高檔的咖啡。因為它的名氣,甚至還有假的藍山咖啡出現,該怎麼分辨呢?藍山咖啡真的那麼好嗎?

Before the rise of specialty coffee, Blue Mountain coffee was synonymous with top-grade coffee beans and touted as the world's most successful and highest-priced coffee. Due to its fame, there have even been instances of counterfeit Blue Mountain coffee. How can you tell the difference? Is Blue Mountain coffee really that good?

 

藍山咖啡指的是位於牙買加(Jamaica)東部的藍山山脈(Blue Mountain)之特定區域種植的高品質咖啡;在加勒比海的環繞下,每當天氣晴朗之時,太陽直射在蔚藍的海面上,山峰上反射出海水璀璨的藍色光芒,故而得名。1953年,牙買加政府為了控管藍山咖啡的品質,成立牙買加咖啡工業局(Coffee Industry Board),簡稱CIB,牙買加的咖啡在出口前,必須經過CIB一系列苛刻的標準鑑定,才能獲得政府授予的「原產地證明書」,正式冠以「藍山」的名稱,因此真正的藍山咖啡是有法律授權及認定才能出口的。

Blue Mountain coffee refers to high-quality coffee grown in the specific region of the Blue Mountains in the eastern part of Jamaica. With the Caribbean Sea surrounding it, whenever the weather is clear, the sun shines directly on the pristine blue surface of the sea, reflecting a radiant blue glow on the mountain peaks, hence the name. In 1953, the Jamaican government established the Coffee Industry Board (CIB) to regulate the quality of Blue Mountain coffee. Before Jamaican coffee is exported, it must undergo a series of stringent standards set by the CIB to obtain the government-issued "Certificate of Origin," officially bearing the name "Blue Mountain." Therefore, true Blue Mountain coffee is authorized and certified for export under the law.

 

牙買加是一個位於中美洲加勒比海的島國,面積大約是台灣的三分之一。標高2255公尺的藍山,是牙買加島上的最高峰,距離首都約五十分鐘的車程。這座高山經常雲霧繚繞,在1675公尺以下的森林區,擁有牙買加最有價值的咖啡資產。海拔1675公尺以上是牙買加的森林保護區,不能種咖啡樹。

Jamaica is an island nation located in the Caribbean Sea, in Central America. It has approximately one-third the land area of Taiwan. The Blue Mountains, reaching an elevation of 2,255 meters, are the highest peaks on the island of Jamaica and are about a fifty-minute drive from the capital. This tall mountain is often shrouded in clouds and harbors Jamaica's most valuable coffee assets in the forested area below 1,675 meters. Above 1,675 meters, the altitude is considered a protected forest area where coffee trees cannot be grown.

 

在牙買加藍山山脈,得益於理想的海拔高度、富含礦物質的土壤、溫和的雲層、山蔭和充足的陽光,高山上氣候陰涼、晝夜溫差大,延長了咖啡的成熟期,增加咖啡豆中的含糖量,因而增加咖啡的濃郁香味。長在藍山上的咖啡並不等同於「藍山咖啡」。只有在法定生長區,且在海拔915公尺到1675公尺之間,才夠資格被稱為藍山咖啡。

In the Blue Mountain range of Jamaica, the ideal altitude, mineral-rich soil, gentle cloud cover, shade from the mountains, and ample sunlight contribute to the unique characteristics of the coffee. The cool climate and significant temperature variations between day and night on the high mountains extend the coffee's maturation period, increasing the sugar content in the coffee beans and enhancing the richness of its flavor. However, not all coffee grown in the Blue Mountains can be considered "Blue Mountain coffee." Only coffee grown within the designated area and at altitudes ranging from 915 meters to 1,675 meters qualifies as Blue Mountain coffee.

 

咖啡四周種植的遮蔭樹也是藍山咖啡的一大特點。遮蔭樹通常是香蕉樹或當地果樹,可以使咖啡樹避免烈日的曝曬,並且有水土保持的功用。藍山咖啡的採收全都使用人工,工人必須巡迴在斜坡上的樹叢之間,將已成熟的咖啡果實一顆一顆摘下。由於同一株樹上的咖啡果實成熟速度有的快、有的慢,故要分為很多次,才能將所有咖啡採收完畢,整個過程十分辛苦。

The presence of shade trees surrounding the coffee plants is another distinctive feature of Blue Mountain coffee. These shade trees, typically banana trees or local fruit trees, provide protection from direct sunlight and contribute to soil conservation. The harvesting of Blue Mountain coffee is entirely done by hand, with workers navigating through the slopes and thickets, picking the ripe coffee cherries one by one. Since coffee cherries on the same tree ripen at different rates, the harvest needs to be done in multiple rounds, making the entire process labor-intensive.

 

所有外銷的藍山咖啡都必須經過牙買加咖啡工業局(CIB)的詳細審查。唯有通過專業品管人員杯測的咖啡,才能外銷世界市場。牙買加咖啡局局長特別強調,藍山咖啡重質不重量,為了保護牙買加藍山咖啡的聲譽。

All exported Blue Mountain coffee must undergo thorough scrutiny by the Coffee Industry Board (CIB) of Jamaica. Only coffee that passes the cupping test conducted by professional quality control personnel is eligible for export to the global market. The director of the Jamaica Coffee Industry Board emphasizes that Blue Mountain coffee values quality over quantity, aiming to protect the reputation of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee.

 

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市面上有些號稱藍山,但並非真正的藍山咖啡:

Some products on the market claim to be Blue Mountain coffee but are not genuine:

 

◆ 牙買加咖啡不等於藍山咖啡
位於牙買加東部之藍山山脈之法定地區,且位於海拔915~1675公尺所產的咖啡,才是真的藍山咖啡。

Jamaican coffee is not the same as Blue Mountain coffee.

Only coffee produced in the designated area of the Blue Mountain range in Jamaica, at altitudes between 915 and 1,675 meters, qualifies as authentic Blue Mountain coffee.

 

◆ 藍山風味咖啡不等於藍山咖啡
只是用混豆配出類似藍山的風味咖啡,無法和真的藍山咖啡相提並論。

◆ Blue Mountain Flavor coffee is not the same as Blue Mountain coffee.

It refers to coffee that is blended to mimic the flavor profile of Blue Mountain coffee but cannot be compared to the real thing.

 

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牙買加「藍山咖啡」分級
從質量來分由上到下依次為:NO.1、NO.2、NO.3及圓豆,4個等級。
在法定的藍山種植區內,且海拔915~1675公尺:

Grading of Jamaican "Blue Mountain Coffee"

In terms of quality, the grading from highest to lowest is: No. 1, No. 2, No. 3, and Peaberry, with four grades. Within the designated Blue Mountain growing region and at altitudes between 915 and 1,675 meters:

 

1. 藍山咖啡No.1
生豆尺寸為17/18目,沒有象豆,占至少96%以上,瑕疵豆在2%以內。

2. 藍山咖啡No.2
生豆尺寸為16目,沒有象豆,占至少96%以上,瑕疵豆在2%以內。

3. 藍山咖啡No.3
生豆尺寸為15目,沒有象豆,占至少96%以上,瑕疵豆在2%以內。

4. 藍山咖啡圓豆
圓豆單粒漿果,生豆尺寸為10目,占至少96%以上,瑕疵豆在2%以內。

1. Blue Mountain Coffee No. 1

Bean size: 17/18 screen size, with no elephant beans, comprising at least 96% of the batch, and defects within 2%.

2. Blue Mountain Coffee No. 2

Bean size: 16 screen size, with no elephant beans, comprising at least 96% of the batch, and defects within 2%.

3. Blue Mountain Coffee No. 3

Bean size: 15 screen size, with no elephant beans, comprising at least 96% of the batch, and defects within 2%.

4. Blue Mountain Coffee Peaberry

Round, single-bean cherries, with a bean size of 10 screen size, comprising at least 96% of the batch, and defects within 2%.


法定的藍山咖啡種植區:圖中淺藍色框起來那區

The designated Blue Mountain coffee growing area is outlined in the light blue box in the diagram.


牙買加「咖啡」分級,
在法定的藍山種植區外:

Grading of Jamaican "Coffee"

Outside the designated Blue Mountain growing region:

 

1. 高山咖啡
生豆尺寸為17/18目,沒有象豆,占至少96%以上,瑕疵豆在2%以內。

2. 牙買加咖啡Prime
生豆尺寸為16目,沒有象豆,占至少96%以上,瑕疵豆在2%以內。

3. 牙買加咖啡Select
生豆尺寸為15目,沒有象豆,占至少96%以上,瑕疵豆在4%以內。

1. High Mountain Coffee

Bean size: 17/18 screen size, with no elephant beans, comprising at least 96% of the batch, and defects within 2%.

2. Jamaican Prime Coffee

Bean size: 16 screen size, with no elephant beans, comprising at least 96% of the batch, and defects within 2%.

3. Jamaican Select Coffee

Bean size: 15 screen size, with no elephant beans, comprising at least 96% of the batch, and defects within 4%.

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坊間最常拿來做藍山風味的配方,用帶有鐵比卡品種特色的曼特寧或新幾內亞,加上低酸感甘甜的巴西豆等,但口感的混雜感,與藍山咖啡No.1的乾淨平衡感,喝起來就是不同。

The most common blends that aim to achieve the Blue Mountain flavor typically include the distinctive characteristics of the Typica variety found in Mandheling or New Guinea coffees, along with the low acidity and sweet taste of Brazilian beans. However, the mixed flavors cannot match the clean and balanced taste of Blue Mountain Coffee No. 1.

 

藍山咖啡No.1在淺中焙就做到了一般咖啡豆在深焙的醇厚感,甘甜入口、回甘一直堆疊綿延。其他國家也有甘醇的豆子,像是高級的巴西豆、堅果調的薩爾瓦多豆等,但都沒有藍山No.1的甘甜香醇,完美平衡的口感。

Blue Mountain Coffee No. 1 achieves a richness comparable to the full-bodied flavor of regular coffee beans in a medium roast. It offers a sweet and smooth entry with a lingering aftertaste. While other countries produce beans with a rich flavor profile, such as high-quality Brazilian beans or nutty Salvadoran beans, none can match the sweet richness and perfect balance of Blue Mountain No. 1.

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JC咖啡推廌藍山咖啡No.1

Justin Coffee recommends Blue Mountain Coffee No. 1

牙買加 藍山 琥珀莊園 No.1 水洗
柳橙 楓糖 奶油 柑橘類酸質 Body細緻黏稠 尾韻楓糖柑橘香

Jamaica Blue Mountain Amber Estate No.1 Washed

Orange, maple syrup, cream, citrus acidity, delicate and viscous, with a maple citrus fragrance in the finish.
 

牙買加 藍山 克里斯戴莊園 No.1 水洗
榛果 麥芽糖 黑巧克力 奶油 酸甜平衡 厚實圓潤 焦糖巧克力尾韻 乾淨平衡

Jamaica Blue Mountain Clydesdale Estate No.1 Washed

Hazelnut, malt sugar, dark chocolate, cream, balanced acidity and sweetness, mellow and round, caramel chocolate finish, clean and balanced.

 

牙買加 藍山 銀丘莊園 No.1 水洗
棕糖 焦糖 甘草 腰果 醇厚度高 花香底調 糖漿尾韻乾淨完美平衡

Jamaica Blue Mountain Silver Hill Estate No.1 Washed

Brown sugar, caramel, licorice, cashew, high richness, floral undertones, syrupy finish, clean and perfectly balanced.

 

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沉穩的味道,大叔的情懷
在牙買加的藍山,閃閃發光的陽光被連綿不斷的霧氣所點綴,讓每一杯咖啡的味道很深沉,在成熟的時間裡被神聖的大自然所觸動,在同樣清脆的藍色山間空氣中,只有最好最大的豆子才會用於最優質的藍山咖啡NO.1。
 

 A composed flavor, reminiscent of a mature gentleman's sentiment.

In Jamaica's Blue Mountains, the sparkling sunlight is adorned by continuous mist, creating a profound taste in every cup of coffee. It is touched by the sacredness of nature during its maturation process. In the crisp air of the blue mountainous landscape, only the finest and largest beans are used to produce the highest quality Blue Mountain Coffee No. 1.

 


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